Never Throw Away Scallop Roe: Turn Them Into a Premium Butter – Guide
Apart from its impressive shores and dramatic shoreline, this island boasts a extraordinary culinary culture, deeply rooted in both soil and ocean. Starting with world-famous local baby potatoes to scallops sweeter and more tender than those tasted anywhere else, the island's harvest is second to none. The thing that excites many most, though, is the way local producers and producers are adopting sustainable agriculture, while in doing so reinventing the island's culinary destiny with innovation and dedication.
A few weeks ago, I was fortunate to lead a discussion at a gathering, and cook a welcoming dinner for the participants, together with a inspiring organizer. Naturally, the shellfish had to be on my spread, since they represent the island at their finest: delicate, plump and singing of the sea.
Scallops seem to me the ultimate symbol of the island's food future: succulent, full and restorative by design, purifying and refreshing the sea while contributing to create shoreline habitats. Both cultivated and, crucially, hand-harvested, they're among the eco-friendliest proteins to eat. Yet many, those grew up on Jersey, don't eat the roes – a common affliction, unfortunately. Even more justification to champion these coral-pink morsels, that are much too delicious to throw out. Whipped into butter, they become pure luxury: melt over scallops, stir into risotto or just slather on warm bread.
Scallops may be a bit expensive, though, so I have devised the following recipe to turn just one shellfish into an impressive appetizer (or three into a satiating main course) and, by whipping their roe into smoky paprika butter and baking them in the half-shells with small tomatoes and garlic, unused parts turns into a delicacy.
This spirit of transformation is at the heart of the movement, which has launched an award offering funding to innovators with brand support, mentorship and entry to a retail platform. Evaluated by some of respected food experts, the prize will be presented at an forthcoming conference. This is about backing ideas that can assist the food systems thrive, across the board, and there's no better a more exciting place for this dialogue to begin than Jersey.
Scallops Baked in Egg Spread with Small Tomatoes and Crushed Garlic
Yields six as a starter or 2 as a main
6 roe-on shellfish in the shell
18 small tomatoes, cut in half
6 garlic cloves, smashed
3 whole chili peppers (such as jalapeño), halved lengthwise, or one pinch chilli flakes, or to preference (optional)
50g unsalted butter
One teaspoon paprika
Sea salt and black pepper, to liking
Lemon slices, to accompany
Some samphire, agretti or 6 tiny gherkin slices, to decorate (optional)
Prepare the shellfish, removing the eggs from each and keeping the rest of the scallop attached to the shell (ask the fishmonger to handle this for you, if necessary). Put 6 halved tomatoes in every half-shell with the equivalent of crushed garlic and one half a red chilli, if added.
Transfer the eggs in a container of a hand blender (I find it's the most effective tool for blending tiny quantities), add the spread and spice, and blitz until creamy. Distribute the mixture among the shells, making sure each shellfish is well coated in the butter.
Heat the broiler until it's scorching hot, then put the shellfish under the heat for 6-8 minutes, until blistered and sizzling. Present immediately, garnished with if desired sea vegetables, herbs, a piece of pickle and/or a drizzle of the pickle juice or some lemon juice.